Embroidery Stitch Techniques of Bunka Punch Embroidery.

BASIC INSTRUCTIONS

Klema's Punch Embroidery is based on the Bunka method of Punch Embroidery.

Bunka Punch Embroidery is a way of working a special knitted Rayon yarn into a Fabric backing, whilst following a design printed on the fabric. The completed picture can then be framed, preferably under glass.

Bunka Punch is based on the Russian needlepunch method, being further developed by the Japanese, using knitted rayon 'Bunka' yarn, which is unravelled just prior to working. This special yarn gives you the ability to take longer stitches.

Bunka Embroidery Stitches are worked from the finished side of the design. The work is normally used for pictures for the walls, or for greeting cards. (The Russian method uses tiny stitches worked from one side, with the reverse side becoming the finished design. Their work can be used on washable items.)

BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR BUNKA PUNCH EMBROIDERY

MATERIALS:

> 'SP' Punch Needle
> Kit of your choice
> Wooden work frame to suit
> Drawing Pins
> Scissors (or snips)
> Long Needle Threader

ASSEMBLY OF WORKFRAME: Some small frames are assembled already, but most need to be pressed together at the corners. Lightly tap the corners 'home' with a hammer, a small block of wood, or the heel of a shoe.
(After the completed picture has been removed, the frame may be tapped apart again for more compact storage).

PINNING UP: Lay the fabric over the workframe, printed side up. Start pinning the fabric to the frame in the following sequence.

Keeping the printed corner of the picture about 0.5 - 1cm inside the workframe, pin the fabric to the corner of the frame at corner 1. Keeping the edge of the picture the same distance from the workframe, stretch the fabric to corner 2, and pin. Fill in the space between these two corners with a row of drawing pins, spaced approximately 2 - 3cm apart. Do not put any sideways tension on the fabric at this stage.
The next stage is similar. Stretch and pin the fabric to corner 3, keeping the picture edges square. Then fill in the space between corners 2 and 3 with drawing pins (2 - 3cm apart).
Next, pull the fabric diagonally and pin to corner 4. Just a moderate diagonal pull is sufficient. Enough to 'square up' the corners of the picture. The main fabric tension will be applied in the next, and final step.
Starting at the centre of one of the remaining sides, (3 - 4 or 4 - 1), stretch the fabric very tightly, and pin. Fill in the space with pins as before, stretching the fabric at each pin point. Repeat for the last side. The final result should be DRUM tight fabric.

THREAD: The thread is not ready for use, as it comes. Before using, wind the skein onto a cardboard wedge, and number accordingly, then pick at the very end of the thread and pull the frayed end until it starts to unravel. When done correctly, the thread will have a single chain effect, being very curly and limp.

Correctly unravelled Bunka yarn.

THREADING THE 'SP' NEEDLE: Insert the loop of the long needle threader into the hole in the needle point, and push it right through so that the loop protrudes out of the top of the handle.
Drop the end of the unravelled yarn through the threader loop.
Then withdraw the threader from the needle, and disengage it from the end of the thread.
The thread is now positioned through the the centre of the needle.
Now you are ready to start.

EMBROIDERY STITCH METHOD: The stitch is done by holding the needle like a pencil, in an upright position. Punch the needle through the fabric to the full depth of the needle shank, raise it back out to the surface of the fabric, and gently slide the needle point across the surface for about 6 - 30 mm (0.25" - 1.25").
Then punch the needle through the fabric again. Repeat this procedure, keeping the thread flowing freely by allowing it to hang over the back of your hand. Do not jerk or hesitate, to avoid making ‘loose stitches’. If this should happen, simply pull undone the incorrect stitches, pull the slack thread back through the needle, and re-do the stitches.

As stitching progresses, keep an eye on the amount of unravelled yarn there is going into the handle. Before the last of the unravelled yarn disappears into the handle, hold the thread firmly at the needle point and pull some more of the knitted yarn undone. Aim at unravelling about 300 - 600mm (1 - 2ft.) of yarn at a time.

FLAT STITCH: For filling in an area, use stitches from 10 - 30 mm long (half to one and a half inches). Using short stitches in small areas, and a variety of short and longer stitches for larger areas. Stagger the needle holes in adjacent rows, to give a smoother effect. Keep rows of stitches close together so that the fabric does not show through.

FRENCH KNOTS: To add a fleck of colour, e.g. flowered areas along the edge of a path, in the grass, moss on tree trunks, twinkles in the birds eyes etc., - stitch up from the reverse side, rotating the needle one turn before pulling it out slowly.

SHADING: A zigzag line on your design usually indicates where two colours are blended together. The first colour should be stitched well over this zigzag line, using a variety of long and short stitches. Then using the second colour, stitch well back into the first colour, again using long and short stitches. Take care to be consistent with the direction of your stitches when shading, so that the rows of yarn lie neatly beside each other, and not at an angle.

FINISHING OFF YOUR THREAD: When you have finished using a colour in an area, pull the needle up out of the way, and with your scissors, cut the yarn as close as possible to the work surface. If a little fluffy bit remains showing, turn the workpiece over and scrape a fingernail over the last stitch; this should flick the fluffy end through to the underside of the fabric.

HINTS - PROBLEM SOLVING:

If you have trouble with the thread not staying in the fabric, check the following.

* Tightness of the fabric on the work frame (remember it needs to be DRUM TIGHT).

* Ensure that there is no tension on the thread as it enters the needle (e.g. caught on the drawing pins, or under your hand etc.)

* The thread is not wrapped around the needle point against the direction of the stitch.

* Make sure that the tail of the thread is flowing over the top of your working hand.

* Ensure sufficient thread is unravelled.

* The thread is correctly unravelled.

For further information on these last two you may need to refer to the video or comprehensive instruction book.

A TIP IF MAKING YOUR OWN WORK FRAME

If making your own workframe, make the INSIDE dimensions of the frame one eighth larger than the size of the picture. e.g. A Size 3 picture is 30 x 40 cm (11.8" x 15.7")
Add one eighth. i.e.Multiply by 1.125
30 x 1.125 = 33.75
40 x 1.125 = 45
Therefore the inside dimensions of your rectangular workframe are
33.75 x 45 cm, (or 13.3" x 17.7")

This allows room to stretch the fabric and still be able to work to the edge of your design.

Bunka Punch Embroidery is available in Kit form, each kit containing:-

> Fabric, printed with colour coded design.
> All the Yarn necessary to complete the picture.
> Colour print and line print.

So, What’s so special about Bunka?

It’s simple to learn. If you can hold a pencil, then you’re half way there.
It’s relaxing and rewarding. Hours to stitch, a lifetime to enjoy.
No counting or tying off, and it’s easy on your eyes.
Progress is rapid. You can see your design take shape in
a fraction of the time of other forms of embroidery.

Happy Bunka-ing !

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